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Feb. 1st, 2013 10:52 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
moonflower77about traditional footwear:
the traditional footwear of the nenets, called pimy, are tall (thigh-high) mocassin boots. they are sewn from reindeer hide with the fur facing outward using sinew or purchased thread, provided it is thick and firm enough. in extremely cold weather, they can be worn with stockings whose fur faces inward, toward the foot. the hide used to make them is taken from the feet of a reindeer, usually one that used to be a favorite or was special in some other way.
footwear has a special significance for the nenets culture, perhaps because keeping one's feet warm and dry is crucial for survival in the tundra (especially during the colder season). each pair of footwear even has a name of its own. the nenets are very careful with their boots and often wear them for 5-7 years or even longer; each man has two or three pairs, which may then be handed over to his son or placed at his burial site so he can "take" them to the lower world. apart from the casual footwear meant for everyday use, one may also have a separate pair of boots for special occasions, which can be worn throughout one's lifetime.
the boots worn by men and women have a different cut and look quite distinct, so one can easily tell them apart at once.
to make a pair of men's boots, one needs the hides from ten or so reindeer feet. the hide for the sole is taken from the bottom part of a reindeer's foot (in russian, its rough fur is called a "brush") or, occasionally, from a reindeer's forehead, as it is the most durable there. the fur has to be directed backward.
the front of the boot, usually below the knee, is decorated with horizontal bands of fur interspersed with narrow woolcloth ribbons in red, blue or green. to create the ornament, one has to take two fur bands, one in white and one in a darker shade, and hold then together with the fur turned inward. the edges are then sewn together as tight as possible and the strips are turned inside out. afterward, more bands are added in the same manner.
on the whole, the ornament on men's boots is very austere. the simplest and most ancient designs are used, among them "reindeer path", "man's head", "bear ears" and "moose antlers" (the latter is seen as particularly masculine, expressive and monumental). it is thought that the more laconic the ornament, the greater the taste of the seamstress.
the boots are attached to the rings on the belt of one's fur pants using special leather straps, and are tied just below the knee with straps of leather or laces woven from dyed wool.
to make a pair of women's boots, one needs the hides from eight or so reindeer feet. for the soles, the hide is taken exclusively from the bottom part of a reindeer's foot, never from the forehead; a reindeer's forehead has a certain sacramental meaning and is thought to be unsuitable for making women's footwear, because a woman is considered "unclean". women's boots are rarely made from the hide of ring seals, as the ring seal used to be a sacred animal.
female footwear is stored in a special suede bag (shuipaty) which is kept on a separate sledge, away from other belongings. it is believed that a woman can commune with the powers of the netherworld when she walks. this ability is realized through her feet, and, accordingly, also through her footwear, so it is thought that the latter should be isolated from other objects in the household.
the strip of hide at the front is much narrower and ends in an elongated, rounded point, which does not quite reach the boot's tip. this point is decorated with an ornament, which is located considerably lower compared to that found on men's boots, perhaps because a woman's parka is longer and any ornaments have to be shifted down to be visible. another ornament is made at the back, just above the heel, and at the side of the boot, so that it seems to isolate a certain section and creates an interesting geometrical effect. it consists of narrow bands of fur in darker and lighter hues, interspersed with ribbons cut from thick woolcloth. the ability to join seven such bands together and use them to make a single boot is seen as a sign of special skill. these strips of fur stand for the four moral taboos: thou shalt not steal, thou shalt not kill, thou shalt not swear, thou shalt not hurt those who are weaker than yourself. the strip at the front that runs down toward the tip of the boot represents the line of life.
the design often used for women's footwear is a rhomboid one called "embers" or "little calves' horns". the boots worn by young girls have a special design called "hare ears", which symbolizes the fact that its owner is as timid and fearful as a hare. depending on the preferences of the seamstress, the ornament can be dyed or scraped, or an applique can be made from bits of fur. more recently, boots have been have been decorated with tassels, which help place some accents on the ornament and make it brighter and clearer.
women's boots, like men's, are also attached to the belt of the pants using wide leather straps, but they are never tied below the knee.
white is seen as a particularly attractive color for fur boots.
about traditional belts:
the functional purpose of the belt is to preserve warmth when one is wearing spacious oversized clothing. it creates a pocket of air at the bosom which retains warmth throughout the day, even if one spends most or all of the time in the tundra. it is also thought to ensure a physical sense of lightness and ease, while improving one's concentration at the same time.
the belt also has a huge cultural significance. it is a symbol of the union between the upper (pure or sacral) and lower (impure, material, flesh-dominated) world, and, as such, is the one essential item every nenets must wear no matter what the circumstances. the metal elements of the belt, especially its massive buckle, are seen as a symbol of purity.
the way one wears one's belt is thought to reflect the traits that make one a good worker and a valuable member of the community. the belt is on and fastened properly = one must be well-prepared, focussed, ready to set out on a journey or to perform any tasks that might be waiting. the belt is fastened in a sloppy or incorrect way = one cannot possess any of the qualities prescribed by the nenets work ethic, that is, one cannot be serious, diligent, meticulous, steadfast, neat etc. the belt has been left in the yurt and one has ventured outside without it = one must be slovenly, untidy, disorganized, lazy, in short, a layabout and an idle individual. the belt has been lost = one must be altogether unreliable and is not to be trusted.
the belt also serves as a status symbol and an external indicator of one's wealth, as well as a decorative item of clothing.
a belt is worn throughout the entire day without being taken off, except when one is eating or sleeping, but even then, the belt lies at one's side. in the tundra, a person without a belt is a virtually impossible sight.
in the past there used to be a strict set of rules that governed the way a belt was to be handled. among the ones that have survived to this day are the taboos against leaving it behind, throwing it onto the ground, losing it, lending it to someone else, and stepping onto or over it. some of these are connected to the belief that a belt, in a way, contains one's essence or defines who one is; should it find itself in the wrong hands, one will become vulnerable to noxious magical influences (the same would happen if the wrong individual heard one's true name).
a man's belt (ni) serves as a symbol of the man's dignity as a male and showcasts his origin and the extent of his material wealth. it can also be used to shorten or lenghten the traditional parka (malitsa). usually, the malitsa is worn in such a way that a loose yoke forms above one's waist; it is often used as a "pocket" to keep the pipe and tobacco-pouch.
there used to be an ancient tradition of making belts from the skins of sea animals, which persisted until recent times. these days, only reindeer skin is used; that too is a convenient material, as it does not stretch, swell or lose its shape when soaked in water, or become brittle when dry. belts are decorated with pieces of woolen fabric and metal decorations (syar sya), which can be quite heavy and are thought to provide one with magical protection; they can include copper medallions in various shapes or copper buttons, which can be arranged in two or more rows.
the belt can be used as a sort of mini-box for instruments to be used in the field. the tools that are the most indispensable for survival in the tundra, as well as the most necessary for one's daily activities, are attached to the belt so they are always at hand. there is an unspoken rule against there being anything redundant on one's belt; only the most vital and useful implements and the strongest amulets must go there.
the most important of these by far is the hunting knife and its sheath (khar, khar se). the sheath that holds the knife is attached to the belt using two chains, or two straps of leather. in some cases, the sheath hangs from small ornate horn plates (made from polished reindeer antler) that have been joined together with thin leather straps. once in a while one can see a belt with two sheathes, though this in rather rare. the sheath with the knife inside usually hangs on the right, as the reindeer herder sits on the left side of the sledge and holds the khorey (a long thin stick used for driving the reindeer) in his left hand. if the knife were dangling on the same side, it would touch the back end of the khorey and could hit or become tangled in a tree. the handle faces backward, which makes it quicker and more convenient to take out the knife.
the knife itself resembles a straight, narrow metal strip with a sharp right-hand edge. the handle is made from ivory, horn (reindeer antler) or wood; the latter is the most preferable, as a wooden handle is lighter, does not chill the hand in subzero temperatures and sits more firmly in the sheath, so there are fewer chances that it will slide out. the same materials are used to make the sheath. it is usually rectangular; the lower part is flat and its cross-section is a somewhat stretched-out trapezium with a hollow for the blade, while the upper part is wider, and its cross-section is an ellipse. at the top of the sheath there is a rectangular metal plate used for fixing the strings, along with an opening for the handle. both the handle and the sheath are decorated with a geometrical ornament or groups of tiny, skillfully carved figures. every adult member of a nenets family has a knife and uses it during meals and for a variety of other daily activities. children start to learn using a knife very early on. european visitors are often shocked when they see toddlers with knives, but their argument - that this is dangerous - does not register with nenets parents. they think it inconceivable that a child who is, for example, as old as one year and four months could hurt himself with a knife. from their perspective, a little human being of that age is quite sensible, and, since they are going to use a knife literally every single day of their life and their survival could depend on it, they may well start as soon as they can hold one.
on the right-hand side one also attaches the whetstone used to sharpen the knife (siya nesya). it is stored in a small ornate leather bag; at its mouth there is a loop made of woolcloth or leather which can be hooked to the belt. the side of the bag that faces outward is decorated with an applique ornament from bits of fur or colored woolcloth, while its edges are lined with white fur taken from reindeer feet. the whetstone is treated with reverence, as without it the knife will become blunt and therefore useless. besides, it is believed that the bag where the whetstone is stored symbolizes a man's pancreas and must always be full, otherwise its owner may fall ill.
other objects that can be attached to one's belt are an ivory awl (savlyuy ly), which is necessary for preparing a reindeer harness before one sets out (without it one would be unable to undo any of the knots, especially when it is wet or freezing) and a few wooden sticks used to make notches. these can come in different shapes and serve as a sort of makeshift "notebook" where one may mark, for instance, the number of does that have given birth during one's shift. after one has counted the marks and compiled a report, the marks are shaved off with a knife and one can start another "record". there may also be cartridge cases and fine ivory components of the harness. for example, it is not uncommon to see a whole string of small ivory buttons, which are often needed because they get lost or broken and have to be changed. the tobacco-pouch with the pipe and flint striker can also be attached to one's belt; in earlier times, the same was done with the box that was used for storing gunpowder.
certain amulets are also worn on one's belt. these are, first and foremost, the eye-teeth of the animals killed by the hunter, which are attached to the belt's center. they are thought to ward off evil spirits (which seem to be the shadows of the dead, though this has not been established for certain) and guard one's back while the belt remains wrapped around one's waist and fastened. the eye-tooth of a bear is also said to protect one against backache and to ensure good luck when it comes to hunting, while the eye-tooth of a wolf protects the reindeer herd from predators or disease.
other objects one can find on a man's belt are shreds of suede, which may come in handy any moment while a shepherd is travelling around with his herd, and ornamental ivory trinkets of various shapes. these hang from narrow straps of leather, which are attached to the inside of the belt and arranged in a symmetrical fashion. their number must be an odd one, and each has its own strictly defined place. a layer of woolcloth is inserted between the trinkets and the leather of the belt and is left somewhat loose, which makes the belt more colorful.
the belt is fastened using a heavy copper buckle, which has an etched see-through pattern and consists of two identical halves; one has a flat hook, the other has a hole where the hook is to be fitted. the size of the belt can be adjusted with the help of two small ivory buttons and a leather straplet, which allow one to shorten it as much as necessary.
fastening a traditional man's belt is an art in its own right, and boys are taught to do so from a very early age. in a certain sense, it is also a sacramental skill, one that marks ones transition to "proper" or "full" personhood.
women have summer and winter belts. the latter are woven from dyed woolen threads that come in several different colors. the massive copper buckle, which is typically round (for example, ring-shaped) and can be up to 20 cm in diameter, is attached closer to one of the ends. the belt is folded in half at the level of the buckle; once it has been wrapped around one's waist, the longer end is drawn through the ring at the front, after which the two ends are tied together. one can wrap the belt round one's waist and draw it through the buckle many times over, creating a sort of makeshift corset that was thought to have medical benefits (it supports the abdominal muscles and, by pressing on them, reminds its owner of the need to train them in order to give birth without complications). in the past, women's belts used to reach 3-4 meters in length; likewise, the buckles could be quite large and heavy.
the nenets wear a belt from the earliest childhood and until the very end of their lives. as soon as a baby boy starts to make his first steps, his mother selects a belt for him. at first it may be a piece of string or ribbon or even a common rope (if the family cannot afford anything else). what matters is that the child learns to feel the belt. a three-year-old toddler is given another belt that is woven or made of leather. by the time the boy is five or six, his father would have made a proper leather belt for him, though one that is slightly different from the type worn by adults. such belts usually have ample metal decorations, such as copper buttons and chains. a sheath with a hunter's knife hangs on the right-hand side. this belt is worn until the young man turns 14-15 and makes his own belt, which he will wear for the rest of his life. girls, too, have miniature copies of the belts worn by their mothers, which are a little shorter and narrower, with small buckles. children are taught that their belt is their best friend and protector, one that will never betray them; it is always going to protect their back and help them retain a good stature, which in turn means perfect health (the nenets believe that the spine is as important as the head).
the two images from the museum of nomadic culture in moscow show the objects that can be found inside the nenets yurt (mya'): a wooden hand-drill, parts of the reindeer harness, a traditional man's belt complete with ornate brass plates, ivory trinkets and a sheath containing a knife, the poles that support the yurt, exquisitely made festive boots, simpler boots for everyday use, animal skins, the heavy brass decorations that dangle from the back of a woman's cap. the inside of a typical loinXte'n yurt or cave would not be that much different.
the traditional footwear of the nenets, called pimy, are tall (thigh-high) mocassin boots. they are sewn from reindeer hide with the fur facing outward using sinew or purchased thread, provided it is thick and firm enough. in extremely cold weather, they can be worn with stockings whose fur faces inward, toward the foot. the hide used to make them is taken from the feet of a reindeer, usually one that used to be a favorite or was special in some other way.
footwear has a special significance for the nenets culture, perhaps because keeping one's feet warm and dry is crucial for survival in the tundra (especially during the colder season). each pair of footwear even has a name of its own. the nenets are very careful with their boots and often wear them for 5-7 years or even longer; each man has two or three pairs, which may then be handed over to his son or placed at his burial site so he can "take" them to the lower world. apart from the casual footwear meant for everyday use, one may also have a separate pair of boots for special occasions, which can be worn throughout one's lifetime.
the boots worn by men and women have a different cut and look quite distinct, so one can easily tell them apart at once.
to make a pair of men's boots, one needs the hides from ten or so reindeer feet. the hide for the sole is taken from the bottom part of a reindeer's foot (in russian, its rough fur is called a "brush") or, occasionally, from a reindeer's forehead, as it is the most durable there. the fur has to be directed backward.
the front of the boot, usually below the knee, is decorated with horizontal bands of fur interspersed with narrow woolcloth ribbons in red, blue or green. to create the ornament, one has to take two fur bands, one in white and one in a darker shade, and hold then together with the fur turned inward. the edges are then sewn together as tight as possible and the strips are turned inside out. afterward, more bands are added in the same manner.
on the whole, the ornament on men's boots is very austere. the simplest and most ancient designs are used, among them "reindeer path", "man's head", "bear ears" and "moose antlers" (the latter is seen as particularly masculine, expressive and monumental). it is thought that the more laconic the ornament, the greater the taste of the seamstress.
the boots are attached to the rings on the belt of one's fur pants using special leather straps, and are tied just below the knee with straps of leather or laces woven from dyed wool.
to make a pair of women's boots, one needs the hides from eight or so reindeer feet. for the soles, the hide is taken exclusively from the bottom part of a reindeer's foot, never from the forehead; a reindeer's forehead has a certain sacramental meaning and is thought to be unsuitable for making women's footwear, because a woman is considered "unclean". women's boots are rarely made from the hide of ring seals, as the ring seal used to be a sacred animal.
female footwear is stored in a special suede bag (shuipaty) which is kept on a separate sledge, away from other belongings. it is believed that a woman can commune with the powers of the netherworld when she walks. this ability is realized through her feet, and, accordingly, also through her footwear, so it is thought that the latter should be isolated from other objects in the household.
the strip of hide at the front is much narrower and ends in an elongated, rounded point, which does not quite reach the boot's tip. this point is decorated with an ornament, which is located considerably lower compared to that found on men's boots, perhaps because a woman's parka is longer and any ornaments have to be shifted down to be visible. another ornament is made at the back, just above the heel, and at the side of the boot, so that it seems to isolate a certain section and creates an interesting geometrical effect. it consists of narrow bands of fur in darker and lighter hues, interspersed with ribbons cut from thick woolcloth. the ability to join seven such bands together and use them to make a single boot is seen as a sign of special skill. these strips of fur stand for the four moral taboos: thou shalt not steal, thou shalt not kill, thou shalt not swear, thou shalt not hurt those who are weaker than yourself. the strip at the front that runs down toward the tip of the boot represents the line of life.
the design often used for women's footwear is a rhomboid one called "embers" or "little calves' horns". the boots worn by young girls have a special design called "hare ears", which symbolizes the fact that its owner is as timid and fearful as a hare. depending on the preferences of the seamstress, the ornament can be dyed or scraped, or an applique can be made from bits of fur. more recently, boots have been have been decorated with tassels, which help place some accents on the ornament and make it brighter and clearer.
women's boots, like men's, are also attached to the belt of the pants using wide leather straps, but they are never tied below the knee.
white is seen as a particularly attractive color for fur boots.
about traditional belts:
the functional purpose of the belt is to preserve warmth when one is wearing spacious oversized clothing. it creates a pocket of air at the bosom which retains warmth throughout the day, even if one spends most or all of the time in the tundra. it is also thought to ensure a physical sense of lightness and ease, while improving one's concentration at the same time.
the belt also has a huge cultural significance. it is a symbol of the union between the upper (pure or sacral) and lower (impure, material, flesh-dominated) world, and, as such, is the one essential item every nenets must wear no matter what the circumstances. the metal elements of the belt, especially its massive buckle, are seen as a symbol of purity.
the way one wears one's belt is thought to reflect the traits that make one a good worker and a valuable member of the community. the belt is on and fastened properly = one must be well-prepared, focussed, ready to set out on a journey or to perform any tasks that might be waiting. the belt is fastened in a sloppy or incorrect way = one cannot possess any of the qualities prescribed by the nenets work ethic, that is, one cannot be serious, diligent, meticulous, steadfast, neat etc. the belt has been left in the yurt and one has ventured outside without it = one must be slovenly, untidy, disorganized, lazy, in short, a layabout and an idle individual. the belt has been lost = one must be altogether unreliable and is not to be trusted.
the belt also serves as a status symbol and an external indicator of one's wealth, as well as a decorative item of clothing.
a belt is worn throughout the entire day without being taken off, except when one is eating or sleeping, but even then, the belt lies at one's side. in the tundra, a person without a belt is a virtually impossible sight.
in the past there used to be a strict set of rules that governed the way a belt was to be handled. among the ones that have survived to this day are the taboos against leaving it behind, throwing it onto the ground, losing it, lending it to someone else, and stepping onto or over it. some of these are connected to the belief that a belt, in a way, contains one's essence or defines who one is; should it find itself in the wrong hands, one will become vulnerable to noxious magical influences (the same would happen if the wrong individual heard one's true name).
a man's belt (ni) serves as a symbol of the man's dignity as a male and showcasts his origin and the extent of his material wealth. it can also be used to shorten or lenghten the traditional parka (malitsa). usually, the malitsa is worn in such a way that a loose yoke forms above one's waist; it is often used as a "pocket" to keep the pipe and tobacco-pouch.
there used to be an ancient tradition of making belts from the skins of sea animals, which persisted until recent times. these days, only reindeer skin is used; that too is a convenient material, as it does not stretch, swell or lose its shape when soaked in water, or become brittle when dry. belts are decorated with pieces of woolen fabric and metal decorations (syar sya), which can be quite heavy and are thought to provide one with magical protection; they can include copper medallions in various shapes or copper buttons, which can be arranged in two or more rows.
the belt can be used as a sort of mini-box for instruments to be used in the field. the tools that are the most indispensable for survival in the tundra, as well as the most necessary for one's daily activities, are attached to the belt so they are always at hand. there is an unspoken rule against there being anything redundant on one's belt; only the most vital and useful implements and the strongest amulets must go there.
the most important of these by far is the hunting knife and its sheath (khar, khar se). the sheath that holds the knife is attached to the belt using two chains, or two straps of leather. in some cases, the sheath hangs from small ornate horn plates (made from polished reindeer antler) that have been joined together with thin leather straps. once in a while one can see a belt with two sheathes, though this in rather rare. the sheath with the knife inside usually hangs on the right, as the reindeer herder sits on the left side of the sledge and holds the khorey (a long thin stick used for driving the reindeer) in his left hand. if the knife were dangling on the same side, it would touch the back end of the khorey and could hit or become tangled in a tree. the handle faces backward, which makes it quicker and more convenient to take out the knife.
the knife itself resembles a straight, narrow metal strip with a sharp right-hand edge. the handle is made from ivory, horn (reindeer antler) or wood; the latter is the most preferable, as a wooden handle is lighter, does not chill the hand in subzero temperatures and sits more firmly in the sheath, so there are fewer chances that it will slide out. the same materials are used to make the sheath. it is usually rectangular; the lower part is flat and its cross-section is a somewhat stretched-out trapezium with a hollow for the blade, while the upper part is wider, and its cross-section is an ellipse. at the top of the sheath there is a rectangular metal plate used for fixing the strings, along with an opening for the handle. both the handle and the sheath are decorated with a geometrical ornament or groups of tiny, skillfully carved figures. every adult member of a nenets family has a knife and uses it during meals and for a variety of other daily activities. children start to learn using a knife very early on. european visitors are often shocked when they see toddlers with knives, but their argument - that this is dangerous - does not register with nenets parents. they think it inconceivable that a child who is, for example, as old as one year and four months could hurt himself with a knife. from their perspective, a little human being of that age is quite sensible, and, since they are going to use a knife literally every single day of their life and their survival could depend on it, they may well start as soon as they can hold one.
on the right-hand side one also attaches the whetstone used to sharpen the knife (siya nesya). it is stored in a small ornate leather bag; at its mouth there is a loop made of woolcloth or leather which can be hooked to the belt. the side of the bag that faces outward is decorated with an applique ornament from bits of fur or colored woolcloth, while its edges are lined with white fur taken from reindeer feet. the whetstone is treated with reverence, as without it the knife will become blunt and therefore useless. besides, it is believed that the bag where the whetstone is stored symbolizes a man's pancreas and must always be full, otherwise its owner may fall ill.
other objects that can be attached to one's belt are an ivory awl (savlyuy ly), which is necessary for preparing a reindeer harness before one sets out (without it one would be unable to undo any of the knots, especially when it is wet or freezing) and a few wooden sticks used to make notches. these can come in different shapes and serve as a sort of makeshift "notebook" where one may mark, for instance, the number of does that have given birth during one's shift. after one has counted the marks and compiled a report, the marks are shaved off with a knife and one can start another "record". there may also be cartridge cases and fine ivory components of the harness. for example, it is not uncommon to see a whole string of small ivory buttons, which are often needed because they get lost or broken and have to be changed. the tobacco-pouch with the pipe and flint striker can also be attached to one's belt; in earlier times, the same was done with the box that was used for storing gunpowder.
certain amulets are also worn on one's belt. these are, first and foremost, the eye-teeth of the animals killed by the hunter, which are attached to the belt's center. they are thought to ward off evil spirits (which seem to be the shadows of the dead, though this has not been established for certain) and guard one's back while the belt remains wrapped around one's waist and fastened. the eye-tooth of a bear is also said to protect one against backache and to ensure good luck when it comes to hunting, while the eye-tooth of a wolf protects the reindeer herd from predators or disease.
other objects one can find on a man's belt are shreds of suede, which may come in handy any moment while a shepherd is travelling around with his herd, and ornamental ivory trinkets of various shapes. these hang from narrow straps of leather, which are attached to the inside of the belt and arranged in a symmetrical fashion. their number must be an odd one, and each has its own strictly defined place. a layer of woolcloth is inserted between the trinkets and the leather of the belt and is left somewhat loose, which makes the belt more colorful.
the belt is fastened using a heavy copper buckle, which has an etched see-through pattern and consists of two identical halves; one has a flat hook, the other has a hole where the hook is to be fitted. the size of the belt can be adjusted with the help of two small ivory buttons and a leather straplet, which allow one to shorten it as much as necessary.
fastening a traditional man's belt is an art in its own right, and boys are taught to do so from a very early age. in a certain sense, it is also a sacramental skill, one that marks ones transition to "proper" or "full" personhood.
women have summer and winter belts. the latter are woven from dyed woolen threads that come in several different colors. the massive copper buckle, which is typically round (for example, ring-shaped) and can be up to 20 cm in diameter, is attached closer to one of the ends. the belt is folded in half at the level of the buckle; once it has been wrapped around one's waist, the longer end is drawn through the ring at the front, after which the two ends are tied together. one can wrap the belt round one's waist and draw it through the buckle many times over, creating a sort of makeshift corset that was thought to have medical benefits (it supports the abdominal muscles and, by pressing on them, reminds its owner of the need to train them in order to give birth without complications). in the past, women's belts used to reach 3-4 meters in length; likewise, the buckles could be quite large and heavy.
the nenets wear a belt from the earliest childhood and until the very end of their lives. as soon as a baby boy starts to make his first steps, his mother selects a belt for him. at first it may be a piece of string or ribbon or even a common rope (if the family cannot afford anything else). what matters is that the child learns to feel the belt. a three-year-old toddler is given another belt that is woven or made of leather. by the time the boy is five or six, his father would have made a proper leather belt for him, though one that is slightly different from the type worn by adults. such belts usually have ample metal decorations, such as copper buttons and chains. a sheath with a hunter's knife hangs on the right-hand side. this belt is worn until the young man turns 14-15 and makes his own belt, which he will wear for the rest of his life. girls, too, have miniature copies of the belts worn by their mothers, which are a little shorter and narrower, with small buckles. children are taught that their belt is their best friend and protector, one that will never betray them; it is always going to protect their back and help them retain a good stature, which in turn means perfect health (the nenets believe that the spine is as important as the head).
the two images from the museum of nomadic culture in moscow show the objects that can be found inside the nenets yurt (mya'): a wooden hand-drill, parts of the reindeer harness, a traditional man's belt complete with ornate brass plates, ivory trinkets and a sheath containing a knife, the poles that support the yurt, exquisitely made festive boots, simpler boots for everyday use, animal skins, the heavy brass decorations that dangle from the back of a woman's cap. the inside of a typical loinXte'n yurt or cave would not be that much different.
